Louboutin unveils his olfactive fantasy
It all began when a young boy named Christian Louboutin came across a sign outside a museum stating that high heels were banned in the different galleries of the building to protect the floors. On his way home, this aspiring artist started sketching high heels and stilettos. Years later, the young gentleman undertook an internship at the Folies Bergère, designing shoes for the cabaret dancers. Despite being only 16, he knew that some floors enjoyed the pounding of heels more than the museum did.
In 1991, the talented designer opened his own boutique in Paris. His low-vamp, sexy designs whispered to women’s feet. One day, he stopped to watch his assistant painting her nails red at her desk, and immediately picked up her nail brush to paint the sole of a high-heeled shoe in that same vibrant shade. In less than a minute, Christian Louboutin had redefined the world of women’s high heels.
The ‘Fétiche’ perfume range captures this iconic and sensual atmosphere. Each perfume has an almost glossy olfactory finish and enhances the couture and sexiness of the House of Louboutin.
The woman who wears a pair of Louboutins is audacious and characteristically self-confident, and she would fall in love with Oud Fétiche. It is oversensual, sophisticated and slightly animalistic, with rounded notes reminiscent of a lipstick fragrance.
Paul Guerlain, the creator of Encens Fétiche and Oud Fétiche, discusses his latest creation for Louboutin.
Dear Paul,
How would you describe the Fétiche universe in a few words?
Louboutin is a brand that evokes and embodies sensuality. Sensuality is indeed the key to this world. When you buy a pair of Louboutins, I believe you are also buying into the status associated with the brand.
The goal for this ‘Fétiche’ collection is to find a beautiful ingredient for each fragrance and create something that is both beautiful and sensual. What is the driving force behind it all? Seduction. A woman who wears Louboutins wants to seduce. There is also an element of power involved.
Indeed. It’s unusual for a fragrance collection to capture the essence of a fashion or luxury brand so faithfully. Fétiche is the perfect olfactory expression of Louboutin.
This is all driven by the important concept of democratising the ingredient. Wearing 15-centimetre heels must be difficult, yet countless women around the world dream of owning a pair of Louboutin shoes. So the idea of democratisation is significant.
I recently learned that the Louboutin house is launching its first collection of men’s shoes. Does the combination of « men’s fragrance » and « Louboutin » instantly inspire you?
Yes, because the world of Louboutin is quite rich. I also find Christian Louboutin himself quite inspiring. The idea is always the same: finding a beautiful ingredient that expresses masculinity — something direct and commanding, but not just about « prestige ».
Saffron immediately comes to mind — creating a beautiful, masculine saffron scent that bridges the gap to leather notes. We could also experiment with violet leaves. With its red hue and leather undertones, saffron could serve as a wonderful anchor for the composition.
You created Encens Fétiche before Oud Fétiche. It was the first fragrance in the collection. It must have been incredibly stressful and a huge responsibility to encapsulate the world of Louboutin in a new collection.
There is something spellbinding about the world of Louboutin. I don’t know if it’s the red soles or the shape of the shoes, but incense has that same captivating power. Incense is mystical. Louboutin pumps have a mystical quality, too, in the emotions they stir and the desire they evoke.
So, I worked with incense, using black and pink pepper in the top notes to create a sharp, soaring quality — much like a Louboutin heel. Then, I sculpted the scent to create the effect of swirling incense tendrils wrapping around the foot, capturing the brand’s mysterious allure.
And what about Oud Fétiche?
To create it, I started with a juicy peach. Fruit can be a very glamorous olfactory element, (akin to the cherry note in Rouge Smoking – review here). I added more intense amber notes to enhance its sensuality.
The Fétiche collection not only immerses us in a world of heightened sensuality, but also introduces texture. It evokes the material itself — the leather of the shoe, its substance and even its grain.
Yes, we play with contrasts. Not everyone considers fruit to be a premium ingredient; it can seem insubstantial. However, by adding substance and creating a sense of depth beneath the fruit, we change that perception. Furthermore, oud imparts a leather-like feel thanks to its woody, leathery facets.
I love the idea of hinting at a touch of leather without making it the dominant note, so that the fragrance can be experienced through a different element.
It’s like slipping on a shoe — sliding your foot into an olfactory pump. What was the starting point of Oud Fetiche?
I came up with the idea for an oud fragrance, trying to make Oud more approachable.
Perhaps more feminine?
More feminine, indeed. It can be challenging to make oud more feminine. Some people find it intimidating, yet it is so multifaceted that it can be crafted subtly. With Oud Fétiche, I aimed to make it more accessible without compromising the intensity, richness and contrasts of the raw material. I set aside its animalistic qualities to focus on its depth and substance.
That said, although it has become more mainstream, it still has a niche character.
I think the Fétiche collection embodies this perfectly. The Fétiche collection has its own set of codes. In Oud Fétiche, for example, one might spot certain hallmarks of prestige perfumery, yet it is crafted differently. The formula is very concise and pared down. There is no room for the superfluous; the composition is direct. This is a characteristic that I find to be typical of niche perfumery, which is known for its highly distinctive olfactory signatures.
Did you see the bottles and the heels that surrounded them while the formulas were being developed?
Not right away. I saw them fairly soon after that, but not at the very start of the creative process. There’s something pretty wild about those bottles, though! The bottles in the Fétiche collection resemble weapons of war.
Indeed, they do! We were talking about democratisation earlier. The democratisation of the desire sparked by these ‘weapons of war’. Wasn’t Oud Fétiche launched in New York recently? What was that like?
It was very moving because I hadn’t been to New York in over ten years. Yet that is the city where I started my career as a perfumer.
Tell us your story with New York.
I started my career doing some testing for IFF in New York twelve years ago. I actually became a perfumer in New York, a city with incredible, electric energy. When I arrived for the launch of Oud Fétiche a few months ago, I rediscovered that same breakneck pace of life. It was very moving.
This energy can indeed be found in the fragrances created by New York-based perfumers.
Yes, everything there is different. In terms of sound, visuals and diversity, New York is a constant source of inspiration. As perfumers, it is beneficial for us to travel and experience the energy of a city first-hand, and the inspiration it sparks in us.
How was the fragrance received in different regions?
In the Middle East, it was also very well received, as it offered a non-traditional take on oud. Consumers there had grown weary of the animalic ouds they had previously been offered. Paired with peach notes, Oud Fétiche found its audience in the region.
In Europe, the fragrance’s intensity, combined with a very juicy opening, was highly appreciated.
Upon first spray, it is instinctively highly sensual.
It becomes even more so when worn. A radiant, sun-drenched facet bridges the gap between peach and oud. Oud Fétiche is more than just a peach and oud combination; it is a journey that begins with an invigorating opening. Next comes a solar note hinting at jasmine and bordering on lactonic that links the whipped quality with the peach notes. As the fragrance evolves, the jasmine shifts towards its deeply sensual, nocturnal side. There is a progression, a true journey, in Oud Fétiche — whether you are wearing he
